Saving Snow And Ice Damaged Trees
We had serious snow and icy winter weather here in Pennsylvania during the first two months of the year, which really took a toll on trees and shrubs. Driving around my neighborhood, I see lots of tree limbs and branches on the ground, snapped off by wind and the weight of snow and ice. I was lucky and avoided any significant damage to my property, but for those whose trees took a beating, read on.
When a limb breaks from a tree, it leaves a jagged edge, exposing sensitive tissue to the elements. Make no mistake, you need to repair that tree damage before the weather warms and the tree’s sap starts flowing (before the second week of March in Pennsylvania). The exposed, damaged tissue creates a potential entry point for pests and disease to enter your tree, which will leave you with a much larger problem.
- Fiskars pruning saw available at Amazon. Click on image
The most necessary tool for this job is a pruning saw, which is a small, curved-blade saw made especially for cutting tree limbs. If the branch broke from the tree somewhere along the limb (and didn’t take part of the tree with it), you want to remove the rest of the limb down to the trunk of the tree. Start by sawing off easy to manage sections, being careful not to apply too much downward pressure on the weakened limb, which may cause further damage. Keep cutting the branch off in sections until you have less than one foot extending from the tree.
- Cut the limb just above the tree collar
For your final cut, arborists used to recommended a “flush” cut, right up against the trunk (or stem) of the tree, but that thinking has changed. The American Horticultural Society recommends in “Pruning And Training”, that you cut the branch just above the branch collar, which is that ring of slightly swollen tissue where the branch joins the trunk. The branch collar is usually pretty easy to see, or at least to feel. If you can’t find the collar, start your cut on the top of the limb, 1/2 to 1 inch away from the crotch (that “v” shape where the branch grows away from the tree), and saw downward at a slight outward angle. The outward angle allows water to easily run off the exposed wood. Make sure that your cut is nice and smooth, leaving no rough edges. Afterwards, use a pruning knife to smooth out any raised areas.
Years ago, it was common to use a sealer or “wound paint” on the freshly exposed wood, but that technique has gone the way of the rotary phone. Current thinking is that it’s best to leave the wood exposed, as the tree’s healing properties will create growth as scar tissue over that area. A sealer interferes with the tree’s healing process and can actually trap pests or water in the freshly cut tissue, which won’t do your tree any good. It’s remarkable how fast the tree will heal when the cut is done properly.
That’s all there is to it. But be careful and use a ladder for those hard to reach areas! If damage to trees is more extensive than a limb or two, play it safe and call a professional arborist to make the repairs and dispose of the wood.
Very useful, I may get a pruning saw myself although we’re a bit too far into the spring now…
Very useful post. Thanks.
nice post and links… cheers, jenn