In this video, I show you how to plant a River Birch tree, but these basic principles apply to nearly any tree, regardless of cultivar.
Some additional info on planting this tree:
Many River Birch trees have multiple trunks – this particular cultivar has only one trunk.
You may question the time of year I’m planting this tree
I planted in mid-September when the danger of hot days still lingers. We had a heatwave this year of temps over 100 degrees for a sustained period and this tree was sitting in a container at the nursery the entire time, and it still looks good. In the fall, you can get some really sweet deals on nursery products, as they want to move them off their lot – I paid half price for this tree and had it delivered at no additional charge. Additionally, planting in the fall is preferred to spring planting, as the warm, dry soil and less threat of sudden, extreme heat gives tree roots plenty of opportunity to grow.
I point out that the roots have grown out the bottom of the container
That means that the tree is root-bound, which sends up a red flag that it’s been in the container too long. It will need some TLC before and after I plant it. One step I don’t show on the video is loosening the roots from the planting medium. When I removed the tree from the container, the roots were really difficult to loosen, especially near the bottom. I used a three prong garden cultivator and gently dug in between the roots and the planting medium to loosen things up as much as possible without damaging the roots. This should allow water and nutrients to penetrate and stimulate new root growth. This step is essential when planting any kind of tree or shrub which is root-bound.
My soil in that part of my yard is pretty atrocious, despite my best efforts
My house (and neighborhood) sits on top of very alkaline clay. Dig deep enough (and sometimes not very deep at all) and you’ll find red clay that’s almost as hard as a brick – literally.
Some experts will tell you to use 75% compost and 25% of the soil that came out of the hole as backfill
Backfill is what you put back in after the tree is in the hole. That’s a pretty good rule of thumb – it all depends on your soil. When you put the backfill in the hole, do it in alternating layers of soil and compost. After each layer, fill the hole all the way to the top with water (gently) and let it drain. When you’ve layered the compost and soil to within an inch of the top, press the dirt down with your foot and make it nice and snug (don’t compact it!) to work out any gaps between the root ball and the dirt. NOTE: As of 2020, horticulturists now recommend that you only add the original soil back into the planting hole and layer the compost on top. This encourages better root growth beyond the planting hole.
I always create a “basin” on the perimeter of the filled-in hole
This serves to collect water, stop runoff and feed the roots. Make sure the basin is level all the way around so water doesn’t run and pool on one side. Leave the basin open for about one month, until you see signs of root growth. Obviously, you won’t see the actual roots growing, but you will be able to see healthy green leaves on the tree, new buds, new leaves, and just a generally healthy, sturdy-looking tree.
I recently (July) planted a birch pretty much following your example. I used “soil enricher” -made of pine bark and other organics-and back fill dirt.
I’ve given it plenty of water and we’ve recently had some heavy rain. The leaves are starting to turn yellow and I’m wondering if its going to die-thoughts?
Stanley: Birch trees are notorious for their leaves prematurely yellowing when they’re under stress. Assuming you’ve had higher than normal heat this past month like the rest of us, it’s probably a response to that. Plus, you also planted the tree during a very warm period of the year, so it will need TLC through the fall when its roots will begin to spread. Trees grow in fall and spring, and that’s when you should notice a stabilization – it will suddenly look a lot happier. So through the fall, pay a lot of attention to it – water very deeply every week -two to three inches to make sure the deepest roots get water, and don’t fertilize it again until fall. Then add lots of compost around the base and out from the base a few feet to encourage root development away from the tree. The tree has not spread its roots yet, so it will be in a delicate state until it does so.
magnificent points altogether, you simply won a new reader.
D:
Thanks for the comment. That is truly a shame. If the leaves are turning black, that would indicate that the tree is under extreme stress or diseased. My recommendation is to not pay the bill until the landscaper makes good on his mistake or bad stock.
Last spring I was examining one of the trees at the church I go to. We couldn’t figure out why this particular tree was looking so unhealthy while the others were doing fine – until I noticed a piece of burlap sticking out of the ground near the trunk. Turns out the landscaper never removed the burlap from the root ball – it was still completely intact, string and all. I got in there, removed the burlap and now the tree looks beautiful.
Unfortunately, landscapers don’t need a degree or education of any kind before they go into business. Pretty much anybody with a shovel and a lawnmower can start a landscaping business. Buyer beware.
Good luck with your birch tree – send a picture if you like and we can help diagnose the problem.
MY NEWLY PLANTED RIVER BIRCH HERITATE APPEARS TO BE DYING.. AFTER WATCHING YOUR VIDEO, I THINK IT WAS NOT PROPERLY PLANTED… WATER WAS NEVER USED, COMPACTED SOIL MAY BE THE CULPRIT.. THE LEAVES ARE TURNING BLACK INSTEAD OF USUAL YELLOW.. I FEEL AWFUL BECAUSE THE PLANTING WAS DOWN BY PROFESSIONAL AND A BILL WAS SENT TO ME FOR 325 DOLLARS. NOT HAPPY ….